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=======================================================
CONTENTS OF THIS ISSUE
=======================================================
1. Guatemala - Good for Us Old Gringos - Phil H.
2. Recommended Travel Guides
3.  South Mexico and Guatemala Update - Jean-Marc
4. Latest Trip to Guatemala - Greg Autry
5. Publishing and Advertising Info.

========================================
Current Exchange Rate:  $1.00US = Q7.65
========================================

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Xela Pages Newsletter Archives are online!!!

http://www.xelapages.com/newsletter/

Read all the past issues plus other articles about 
travel in Guatemala!
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====================================================
1. Guatemala - Good for Us Old Gringos - Phil H.
====================================================
Phil Hassinger mailto:phassing@oregontrail.net

It seems common that when folks pass the fifty year mark they become a
bit more security conscious and cross off of their lists many travel
destinations that they would have considered a few years earlier.  I
hope that I can dispel any fears concerning travel in Guatemala for
older folks.  My wife and I are passed fifty and we traveled recently
with another couple passed sixty to both the low lands as well as the
high lands of Guatemala with nothing but wonderful experiences.
Guatemala is, at this point in time, in a position to offer the richest
opportunities for cultural interaction (with assured safety) of any place I
have traveled.

My second visit to Guatemala included my wife and another couple,
recently retired.  We arrived on a late flight to Guatemala city.  Our
bags were there and in ten minutes we were outside the airport waiting
for transport to a nearby hotel. Mario, a driver for Vision Travel had a
placard with my name on it and away we went. From getting off the airplane
to arriving in the hotel took forty minutes - I've never done that in the
states!

I should take a moment and tell you about Vision Travel.  After deciding to
go to Guatemala, I passed my itinerary by Tom (Xelapages) whom I'd met the
year before while at a language school in Xela.  He reviewed it and
suggested I email it to Nancy Hoffman, a friend of his (and partner in
Vision Travel.)  I emailed Nancy in Antigua and almost immediately got a
reply with suggested itinerary changes.  We went back and forth for a few
weeks with ideas culminating in my having her do all the in-country flights
and lodging.  What a great decision that turned out to be.  Nancy, whom we
met on the trip, is committed to providing hassle free travel while in "her"
Guatemala. I would recommend using Vision, with their fleet of vans, for a
flawless vacation.

Our first full day in Guatemala included an early flight to Flores in
the Peten region.  We hired a little motor boat and driver to show us
Lake Peten. What a blast, visiting villages around the lake - even saw a
jaguar in a small zoo.  We were at the zoo with a group of school kids from
a nearby village.  They enjoyed letting the gringos practice their Spanish
with them.  Their school was a one room affair, about thirty kids, ranging
in age from about five to thirteen, with one teacher.

The next two days were spent at nearby Tikal.  I won't go into a great
narrative about Tikal, except to say that it exceeded my expectations.
The jungle noises are something one has to experience to appreciate so a
night or two at one of the few hotels in the park is a must.  We hired a
guide to take us through the jungle very early on the second day so we could
climb Temple IV in time for the sunrise.  Once at the top of Temple IV you
are above the jungle canopy, looking down on a gray mist at that time of the
morning.  A few other temples are visible as gray ghosts in the distance. 
It is very quiet prior to sunrise.  As the sky lightens a little animal
chatter can be heard, then more.  Finally, as the sun becomes visible from
the roof comb of the temple a crescendo of voices, howler monkeys and
friends, punctuates the moving shafts of light.  It is really quite moving.

We flew back to GUA, then a Vision van to Antigua.  Two things separate
Antigua from other Guatemala cities.  The first is the colonial architecture
with many evidences of earthquake damage and repair.  Very beautiful!  The
second is three large volcanoes which allow for easy reference while in
Antigua.  One morning we stood on our roof and watched one of the volcanoes
puff varied clouds into the blue sky.  We took a walking tour (Elizabeth
Bell tour) which lasted the morning.  Her emphasis is Antigua's art and
architecture.  This is a great indoctrination to this city.  There are a
couple of jade factories in Antigua which are interesting to visit.  The
jade that is mined is presumed to be the same quarries as used by ancient
Mayans and found in tombs.  Very high quality - high in nephrite.

We left Antigua for Panajachel, several hours north.  Here we spent a
few days near Lake Atitlan.  One morning we hired a young fellow who
owned a boat to take us around the lake.  We got off a mile or so around the
lake on a shaky wooden dock.  There was a nice trail going from the dock to
the village so off we went.  Not far down the trail we ran into a couple of
young boys playing marbles.  They shot their marbles at a coin they stood on
end in the dirt.  They were having a great time laughing and clapping.  We
asked if we could try, which gave them something else to laugh at.  I don't
think we ever hit the coins (I'll have to practice at home).  We made some
gringo noises (English) which caused some heads to look out from the doors
and windows. Just prior to leaving we pulled out a bag of Skittles, probably
more valuable than gold to these kids, and gave them each a few.  I think
we're friends for life.

Another stop around the lake was at San Pedro.  When we got off of the
boat a pair of five year old boys asked my wife if we would like for
them to show us around.  She said OK and off we went.  One of the boys
noticed a Guatemalan postcard  of a painting in my wife's pocket.  He
asked her if she wanted to meet the painter, so off we went through the
streets and allys.  Stopping at a nondescript residence, the boy rang the
bell and a fellow came out to greet us.  Sure enough he was the artist that
painted the picture on the postcard.  He spent a half hour showing us his
work as well as his apprentices.  What a find!  It turned out he had shown
his work in Portland, Oregon a month earlier - small world.

The last stop on the lake was Santiago.  Here the men are as colorful as the
women with their red stripped pantaloons, complete with embroidery. Last
year I visited Santiago and brought home a pen with my wife's name woven on
it.  I told her a little girl had done it in a few minutes. She, being a
teacher, had the brainstorm of having a pen woven for each of the children
in her class.  I looked for the girl who had done the pen last year but was
striking out.  I remembered that I had a picture of her from last year in my
backpack.  I showed it to a guide who was hanging around the boat dock and
he said he knew her.  Up the hill to town and into a fabric store we went -
there was Barbarrita, the same girl. She was twelve years old now.  She
remembered me because last year we were in the middle of hurricane Mitch and
she was glad to get out of the rain to try and sell me something.  I asked
her if she wanted to weave twenty five pens.  Her eyes lit up!  I told her
she could go with us to a restaurant and I'd buy lunch for all of us while
she worked on the pens.  She agreed,  if we would take her six year old
sister.  It was obvious they weren't used to eating at a restaurant when
Barbarrita's sister packed all the food she couldn't eat (including the
rice) into a napkin to take home.  We stayed much longer than we had planned
in Santiago - with no regrets.

Next stop was Chichicastenango.  We got there again with a Vision van.
I asked the driver to stop many times for photos and he graciously
complied - try that on a chicken bus!  Chichi is famous for the Sunday
market.  At this market one may practice much needed bargaining skills. For
me fabric is the attraction here, but you can truly buy just about anything
imaginable.  A good vantage point to take in the market is from the steps of
Santo Thomas Church.  From that spot, the shops are a maze of brilliant
colors - kinetic art to be sure.  If fabric isn't your thing the vegetable
market is very exciting.  We went to the market Saturday night as they were
setting up.  Many of the venders were the growers of the crops and had
carried fifty pounds of carrots, or eggs, or grain, or beans, or whatever on
their heads down out of the Ciche mountains all during the day.

Sunday afternoon we headed west to my favorite city, Quetzaltenango, or Xela
as the locals call it.  I stayed with a family in Xela for a month last year
and was looking forward to meeting them with my wife.  Last year the reason
for my stay in Xela was to go to a Spanish language school.  After a lot of
research I decided on Casa de Xelaju.  Their program, while offering great
flexibility, started with a morning of five hours of one-on-one with a very
professional instructor.  Casa de Xelaju also provided an afternoon cultural
experience every day.  Also, if you are so inclined, there are several
service projects available in the afternoon or weekends.  These projects are
a great way to get to know some of the indigenous and create lifelong
memories.  One comment for anyone contemplating such an experience is that
they might consider that in Xela there are very few people speaking English.
 It is critical for the immersion experience to be most effective that
speaking English is avoided.  This gets you thinking in Spanish in a very
few days.  I believe that it would be difficult to have a similar experience
in Antigua, for example, because so many people speak English there.  The
cost for a month at Casa de Xelaju, including home stay, was $600 last year.
 If you have the opportunity, try it.

A nearby town to Xela is Zunil.  Zunil is one one of the most beautiful
valleys anywhere.  The soil is fertile with a stream flowing through it.  We
took a day trip to Zunil because it was their fiesta week.  Upon first look
one is impressed by the colorful patchwork of crops growing on the flat
ground.  Farmers tend their patch, which may be perhaps thirty feet square,
irrigating by literally shoveling water onto the ground from a deep spot in
a small canal.  On the valley sides grow corn.  Corn is very important to
the indigenous, both as food staple as well as a religious significance. 
The corn grows in patches clear up to the tops of the mountain.  I would
have a hard time walking on the slopes that they have tilled, let alone
planting and harvesting.  They are some tough people.

Above Zunil is a hot spring bath that is very therapeutic for old
gringos that have climbed the temples of Tikal.  We jumped in and
allowed the cares or the world to flow out of our bodies. This exercise set
us up for the tamale fiesta the Alba family (last years host family) had
planned for us back in Xela. Tamales, cooked properly, take a long time to
prepare and are very good.  We ate as many as we could.

We left Xela for Antigua, then Guatemala city for our return home.  It
is really hard to leave Guatemala, the land of colors and smiles.

I have a deep affection for Guatemala and the people I have met from
that country.  I would encourage anyone who hasn't had the experience to try
it.  One needs to consider security about on the level that you would in
downtown LA or NY. Enjoy -

Special thanks to Tom Lingenfelter (Xelapages) and Nancy Hoffman (of
Vision Travel) for helping make this trip wonderful!

Phil Hassinger (Felipe in Guatemala)
=======================================================
2.  Recommended Travel Guides
=======================================================

You can buy these guides directly from Amazon.com simply by clicking
on the Web Address. 
(URL may be too long, make sure you copy entire URL to find guides)

Lonely Planet Central America : On a Shoestring (3rd Ed)
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0864424183/trafficman

Lonely Planet Guatemala, Belize & Yucatan LA Ruta Maya (3rd Ed) 
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0864424248/trafficman

Rough Guide to Guatemala by Rough Guides, Mark Whatmore
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/185828323X/trafficman

The Rough Guide to Guatemala and Belize (3rd Ed)
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/185828189X/trafficman

Fodor's Belize & Guatemala: The Complete Guide With Beaches, 
Maya Ruins and Dive Sites (1st Ed)
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0679033092/trafficman

To see all my recommendations goto:

http://www.xelapages.com/guides/

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Guatemalan Discussion Board - Ask & Answer Questions
http://www.trafficman.com/wwwboard/ 
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=======================================================
3. South Mexico and Guatemala Update - Jean-Marc
=======================================================
Jean-Marc Delatre jmdelatre@icominfo.fr

Hello, 
I return from South Mexico and Guatemala, I'd like to share the following
information.

Note: I travelled with "La Ruta Maya " (Yucatan, Guate + Belize) LP
guidebook , 3rd edition; my remarks on the guidebook relate thus to this
edition. 

This information was collected from 08/13/99 to 09/10/99. (on 08/14: 1
MXP (Mexican Peso) ~ 0.11 USD, 1 GTQ (Quetzal) ~ 0.14 USD). It could be
significant to specify that all the travel time in bus in Mexico, given in
the LP correspond to a trip in 1st class bus, 2nd class can put up 2 times
more, considering the small difference of price: some MXP, that is worth to
take the 1st class. All the prices of rooms given below are for 1 double with 2
beds. 

- Cancun:
* " Colectivo " from the airport: USD9/person and whatever the number of
person! Not found less expensive: taxis much more
* Uxmal hotel (address in the LP): MXP200 with ventilator. Correct, no more
(for the price one could expect better in Mexico, but that is Cancun,
then...)
* Petit-déjeuner (near to the station of bus): MXP33 for a dresser very very
copious, taken assze late can also act as lunching!
* 2nd class bus to Valladolid: MXP47, caution : the 1st cl. bus is
recommended for a few Pesos more, not for security purpose but for speed:
the travel lasted 3h15 for 160 km!!!

- Valladolid :
* Hotel Lily (see LP): MXP110 with ventil. Fine.
* Beer: between MXP10 and MXP12
* Dinner: MXP25 to MXP30 without drink
* 2nd class bus to Chichen Itza: MXP12 each way 
* Entry to Chichen Itza site : MXP75, FREE on Sundays
* Cenote Zaci in Valla : MXP4
* There is a second bus terminal closer to the center: at the corner of the
4a Calle and the 39a Calle, if you take 2nd class busses, it is better catch
them here to have a seat, considering it will then stop at the main terminal
* 2nd cl. bus to Mérida: MXP47, still 4hrs. for about 160 km!! 
- Mérida: 
* Hotel Mayab (see LP): MXP150 with air-conditioning, a little turbid
swimming pool. Not so bad.
* Hotel Las Monjas: MXP105 with ventil. OK.
* Dinner: El Louvre (see LP): MXP40 with 1 beer, service and food useless.
* BAR HIGHLY RECOMMENDEND : Bar Latino, Calle 59, n° 461: MXP11 the beer
waited with an impressive number of cocktail snacks for the same price, and
the owner (very sympathetic and very pleasant, not very usual in this part
of Mexico) pays some at will! One could almost have a meal of them! Go
ahead!
* Animations organized by the town hall of Mérida: Mondays: "Vaqueria
Regional": typical dances at 9pm Zocalo; Tuesday: " Remembranzas Musicales":
music of the Forties, at 9pm Santiago park; Wednesdays: " retreta ": music
of 17th. century, at 9pm Ermita park; Thursdays: " Serenata Yucateca ":
Yucatecan music, at 9pm Sta Lucia park; Fridays: music at 9pm at the
University; Sundays: animations in all the center and the various parks all
the day
* 1st class bus (finally we understood...) ADO to Palenque: MXP198 departure
at 8am. Other departures ADO (even price): 10pm and 11:30pm. Other departure
with another bus company (name ?) 7:15pm for MXP174.

- Palenque:
* CAUTION: there is a problem with hotels in Palenque: while arriving by the
evening ALL hotels are full, early the morning as well, the better being
towards 11am, the check out hour. Therefore reserve when possible
* Hotel Posada Selva: MXP140 with ventil. Very noisy
* Hotel Shalom II: MXP120 with ventil. Brand new and very well, our best
hotel in Mexico, very sympathetic and helpful staff (guard of the bags,
possibility of booking but with Shalom I). to find it: take Av 20 Noviembre
(on the right 50m after the terminal of bus), then 3rd on the right: Calle
Abasolo, it is within 30m on the left
* Dinner: Restaurant Maya (see LP), MXP48 with 1 beer. Well, Artemio's
menu = MXP33 (soup+main dish+drink)
* To have a drink : Antonio's on Zocalo (as well as the nearby restaurant) 2
beers for MXP15!
* Post office: it moved from the address given in the LP: it is now at the
corner of Independecia and Nicolas Bravo, schedules: Mon-Fri: 9am-4pm, Sat:
9am-1pm
* Colectivo to the ruins: MXP7 each way
* Entry to the ruins: MXP25 (free on sundays and public holidays).
* Colectivo to Agua-Azul/Misol-ha: MXP70 (Colectivos Chambalu): spare time:
3hrs in A.A. and 1/2h in M.H.
* 1st cl. ADO bus to San Cristobal DLC: MXP65 (5h30 of travel nevertheless).

- San Cristobal de Las Casaa:
* Hotel: Posada Viriginia (see LP): MXP130 (bargained, "official" price:
MXP150)
* Dinner: El Mirador: MXP22 (soup, pastas or rice, meat, coffee or dessert):
Very well, beer: MXP8. On Madero close to Zocalo.
* Dinner: El Gato Gordo: MXP18 for an enormous dish of pastas. Very well,
liter of beer: MXP17. On Madero right before Cristobal Colon
* Contrary to what its is said in the LP, SNA Jolobil co-operative of SCDLC
is open on Sunday
* 1/2 day trip to San Juan Chamula by horse: MXP80 (lasted 5h of which 1h in
SJC), that is worth it for the outward journey through the fields and woods;
less for the guides (not pleasant at all), the little of time spent to SJC,
and the return on the road with the cars! Best is almost to remain to SJC
and to go back with a colectivo! Go rather in SJC on a Sunday: market,
traditionally dressed men, Indian rituals in the church. CAUTION: do not try
under any pretext of take a photograph of the traditionally dressed men
sitting in arc of a circle, under penalty to immediately be surrounded by 4
"Ninja tortoises" not at all ready to laugh, and which will require the roll
(even if you did not have time to take the photograph like us!)
* To go to the Cañon del Sumidero: colectivo to Chiapa de Corzo (departure
in front of  the bus terminal Cristobal Colon): MXP22. ATTENTION, while
passing to Chiapa, remind the driver to stop, if you don't he will head
directly to Tuxtla! For those, like us, who missed the stop: colectivo from
Tuxtla to Chiapa: MXP5.
* Boat trip in the Cañon: MXP72 per person if 10 people, MXP66 if 11 p.. Not
to be missed, lasts about 2h.
* togo back to SCDLC, you need to go to the petrol station outside of the
city (MXP3) to be able to catch a colectivo to SCDLC.
* Recommended guided tour to Indian villages (see LP) with Mercedes, that is
really worth it, even if the group is huge : MXP72 per person (including
transportation and entry to the SJC church). Visited villages: San Juan
Chamula and Zinacantan. We were there a Tuesday (significant ?) and the
entry to the church of Zinacantan was free contrary to what is said in the
LP
* 1st class bus ALTO to go back to Palenque: MXP70 (departure at 11:30am)

- Palenque -- > Guatemala
* take a Rio Chancala colectivo (calle Allende and Av. 20 Noviembre, not
very easy to find, ask) to Frontera Corozal: MXP45, lasts: 3h. Departures at
6am, 7am, 11am and 2pm every day. We took the one at 6am but as we were only
2 people for the boat in FC we awaited people arriving  with following
colectivos (the one at 7am), therefore that should be OK to leave at 7am,
especially if you are enough people to fill a boat (see below).
* do not forget to stop at the immigration office to have your passport
stamped, there one you will be proposed to change MXP into GTQ at not very
good a rate, thus change only your MXP, and buy the minimum needed in GTQ,
you'll find better rate while arriving at Flores: there are plenty of banks
with ATM
* boat from FC to  Bethel (Guate): MXP375 (!!) for 4 people in the boat,
MXP500 for 10 people, all that for... 25 min. of crossing !
* Ingress tax to Guatemala (is this legal???) GTQ35 or USD5 or MXP50
* Bus (company Pinita) to Flores: GTQ30, lasts: 4h30 of which 1st part on a
awful bumpy road

- Flores/Santa Elena :
* Hotel Continental (Sta Elena): GTQ50, null, cold water
* Hotel San Juan (Sta Elena, close to the bridge towards Flores): GTQ60,
null, cold water even if they claim the opposite
* Dinner : restaurant Mijaro (very small comedor on the main street of Sta
Elena, see LP): GTQ25, beer: GTQ8, Good
* Dinner : Gran Jaguar (Flores, see LP): GTQ60 for the menu with
tepezcuintle (agouti in English ?) + beer: GTQ8. Our most expensive meal but
good
* Bus of hotel San Juan for two-ways to El Remate: GTQ25 (to go = 30 min)
(it is the bus which goes to Tikal: 1st. departure at 6am, for the return
last departure from Tilkal at 5pm)
* Entry to Biotopo Cerro Cahui: GTQ20, tip to the guide (expected) : GTQ20.
Very interesting, take a guide, if you don't you are likely not to see a lot
* Entry to Tikal: GTQ50, CAUTION: if you to want to see all temples,
envisage 7h of visit ! Because of that and of the heat: take the 1st bus
(6am)
* Plane AVIATECA from Flores to Guatemala Ciudad: USD93 (!!!), expensive
because we needed to leave in the morning and a Sunday, you should be able
to find around USD70. All travel agencies are in Flores. Moreover: add a
departure tax of GTQ5. Journey length : 1h.

- Guatemala -- > Coban :
* to go to Guatemala downtown from the airport, take the bus n° 83 (caution
there are several 83, check the avenue displayed on the windshield), if,
like us, you go straight away to Coban, take the 83-7a avenida, to go to bus
company Escobar Monja Blanca (cf LP): GTQ1.25 (15 min)
* Bus E Monja Blanca to Coban: GTQ25 (lasts 4h30)

- Coban:
* Hostal de Acuña (cf LP): GTQ25 per person in a small room of 4, well
* Dinner cafeteria Santa Rita (cf LP): menu GTQ12.75 (!) + beer GTQ5.75 (!
again) well
* Dinner at the rest. H. of Acuña: medium pizza GTQ42,
* Entry to Biotopo Del Quetzal: GTQ20 (take the bus E Monja Blanca towards
Guate: " pullman " = GTQ7, 2nd Cl = GTQ5). Not seen any animal
(understandable as one hears the noise of the road all along the path!). It
is not worth displacement
* email: at the Internet coffee close to the Parque : to send an email using
their mailbox : GTQ10, otherwise 1GTQ per min. of connection.

- Coban -- > Chicacnab:
* Within the framework of "Proyecto Ecologico Quetzal " (PEQ), it is
possible to live a few days with an Indian family in the mountains. You live
at their rate/rhythm (actually very slow ;-), and you sleep and eat like
them. That's worth it, but I think the quality of the stay should vary
significantly depending on the family you are affected. The one we stayed
with was only OK: e.g. we could not take our meals with them, nor to see
them cooking tortillas... what's a pity ! But, anyway this is an
imperishable memory. Go there, all the more since it is a new source of
income for these Indians, in order to slow down deforestation to plant corn.
* Bus from Coban (at the " terminal ", warning: this is a virtual terminal,
no building, but full of buses !) to Carcha: GTQ1 (15 min, dep. at 12pm)
* Bus Carcha-Caquipeq: GTQ4.50 (1h20, dep. at 2pm)
* Once in Caquipeq a guide comes to seek you: 2h30 hiking in the mountain to
reach the house you have been affected, envisage walking shoes, which do not
fear mud (boots?), and a sleeping bag (the "village" is at 2900m), but the
PEQ can possibly rent you one for a few GTQ.
* Prices are the following: GTQ5/meal/person (however we had to pay GTQ10
for a meal with a piece of chicken...), GTQ5/night/person, prices for guides
are not on a per person basis: GTQ25 for the trip from and to Caquipeq (thus
x2), and GTQ25 per day for the family guide which takes you along hiking
* ATTENTION: the PEQ imposes 2 people max per family, if you are more than 2
you will be in several families, and you have to know that houses are rather
distant from each other
* Bus E Monja Blanca to go back to Guate: GTQ25 (lasts 4h30)
* Bus to Antigua: contrary to what is said in the LP, we did not find a bus
on the 15a avenida, I thus advise to go directly to the other specified
place (18a calle and 4a Av, Zona 1), I do not remember any more the price,
but it must be something like GTQ5.

- Antigua:
* Hotel: Casa de Santa Lucia n° 4 (a 5th is even planned for soon): GTQ70
VERY WELL, old colonial residence, attention: no sign outside, a guy will
await you at the bus terminal, if not : the address is 5, Alameda de Sta
Lucia, very close to the terminal
* Rest. Cafe Flor (Asian food): GTQ28 for a vegetarian dish. A little bit
expensive for what you get, but OK.
* Circus Pizza (address?) breakfast: GTQ10.75, OK
* Dinner in a restaurant (name?) who doesn't look great (in Calle Oriente,
n°?). On the pavement they propose several pre-prepared dishes, 
very good: GTQ20, beer: GTQ10.
* Bar Beijing: happy hour from 5pm to 7pm: beer GTQ7, liter GTQ16 (2nd block
from plaza on 5a Pon.)
* Entry to La Merced church : GTQ2, interesting
* Entry to La Recoleccion church : GTQ10, of little interest (same price for
Capuchinas, San Jeronimo and Sta Clara, not seen)
* Entry to Casa Ko'jom: GTQ7.5, that's worth it
* Direct bus to Panajachel (bus Rebuli) USD4 (departure at corner of 4a
calle Pon. and Sta Lucia). Best solution, recommended
* More complicated : bus to Chimaltenango (GTQ2), then to Los Encuentros
(GTQ10) and finally pullman (which actually is the previously mentioned
Rebuli!) to Panajachel: GTQ3.

- Lago Atitlan - San Pedro:
* Boat Pana->San Pedro: regular fare  is GTQ10 (we were asked GTQ15, that we
bargained to GTQ12.50), so don't let you cheat. Same price in the other
direction
* Hotel Valle Azul: GTQ30, basic, not so great but friendly, and superb
sight on the lake. On arrival at the pier (the one to Pana): take to your
right hand, walk along the lake shore (immediately after went up from the
pier, take the small path all at the edge of the lake, the hotel is a sky
blue block)
* Lunch : Comedor Emperador: GTQ8 the pastas dish, liter of beer: GTQ10 (!)
* Dinner: Nick's Place, towards the pier, BBQ every evening: beef or chicken
GTQ20, very well. There are also videos (in English) displayed on the 1st
floor some (every ?) evenings.
* Breakfast : La Ultima Cena (opposite to the market), huge pancakes with
fruits for GTQ9, very good but... very long !
* To phone to Europe, there is Guatel office (on the left after the market)
while going up in the village, the guy is very friendly and likes the
French, GTQ20 the min for France (probably the same for most European
countries)
* From Panajachel: to call in Guatemala Ciudad: GTQ1 per min. (not from
Guatel, check the numerous travel agencies, prices vary greatly)
* Same remark to send an email, best we found: GTQ4 from 1 to 15 min. of
connection
* Prensa Libre Newspaper: GTQ2.25 (must be GTQ2 in the capital)
* Excursion to San Pedro volcano (find a guide in the streets, or at the
hotel Valle Azul), we very strongly recommend Abraham. Announced price:
GTQ30 per person, which was spontaneously descended to GTQ20 because it
succeeded in grouping 6 people. Very friendly, very good guide. CAUTION: 4h
of ascent (I believed that I will never arrive at top...), 2h of descent
(intense rythm). Do it, hoping weather will be fine : we had a lot of the
fog at the top, and thus missed the scenic view !
* Bus to Chichicastenango: GTQ10 (departure at 9:10am), lasts: 1h30.

- Chichicastenango:
* Hotel Posada Del Arco: GTQ102, expensive but is worth it
* Lunch rest. Tapena (on 5a Av, between 5a and 6a Calle on the right from
the Arco): GTQ25, very well. Dinner: pastas: GTQ12, beer GTQ7
* Bus to Guatemala: GTQ11, lasts: 3h 
- Guatemala Ciudad: 
* Guesthouse  Dos Lunas: very close to the airport, handy if you have a
plane to catch the next morning and that you do not want to go in the
downtown area. USD10 per people breakfast included and free shuttle to/from
airport. A little bit expensive for what it is... CAUTION: if you did not
purchase food and drinks, the owner (she) can sell you a liter of beer
for... GTQ25!!!!!! She may also order for you pizza pies (special offer : 2
medium for 1: GTQ60). 

That's all (too long, but I gave you everything I have !)
Also, don't forget to have a look at http://www.xelapages.com/, to grab more
info on Guate, and to subsribe to the very interesting Xela Pages Guatemalan
Newsletter, Tom is very friendly and will help you if you need.
Have a nice travel in Central America !
Don't hesitate to email me if you have any question
Jean-Marc

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4. Latest Trip to Guatemala - Greg Autry
=======================================================
mailto:autry@airmail.net

We just finished our latest trip to Guatemala and I thought I would share
some of it with you. We arrived on Friday and Headed for relatives in Santa
Catarina Mita a small town in south central Guatemala. The next day we
traveled to Esquipulas.  For those who have never visited this town it home to
one of the most visited churches in Central America. The Christo Negro is
housed in the church and thousands of people travel here each year to ask
for assistance from him. The walls are adorned with testimonials to prayers
answered. We also walked the Tres Cruses a small mountain near town that
symbolizes the walk of Christ to Calvary. Next day it was off to Rio Dulce.
We rented a launch right under the bridge and got a tour of the area and
Castillo de San Felipe. We also visited Casa Guatemala an orphanage for
abandoned and orphaned children on the river. The July earthquake has
devastated the children's dorms and they are badly in need of monetary
assistance to rebuild the dorms and several other buildings. They have used
some of the other facilities as dorms until the necessary funds are
available to rebuild. We found out too late but anyone who stays at the
Backpackers hotel in Rio Dulce directly helps these children since they
receive no direct funding from the Guatemalan Government relying strictly on
donations and the proceeds from the hotel. We went on to Antigua, and Coban.
Anyone wanting a good chance of seeing a Quetzal should stay at the Ranchito
del Quetzal. It is about 200 yards from the entrance to the Biotopo del
Quetzal. The rooms are basic but there is hot water. We were up around 6 AM
and shortly after sunrise we saw our first Quetzal. By 8 AM there were two
mating pairs gliding from tree to tree right above the comedor. We also took
a walk into the forest on a trail that runs from the ranchito finding a
small waterfall about 15 minutes into the forest. After Coban it was off to
Xela to climb Santa Maria volcano. A word of advice to anyone wishing to
climb this volcano. Get in shape first! I thought I was in shape until I met
this mountain. The trail on this volcano goes straight up the cone. If you
are used to American trails that switchback up the side forget it here. We
made to the top and were rewarded by the fantastic views of Atitan to the
south, Tajamulco volcano to the north and the pacific to the west. It was
extremely difficult but worth the effort. Our final days were spent visiting
Panajachel and Santiago de Atitlan where we visited Maximon, the sinners
saint giving him the required offering of cigars and rum thanking him for
our safe journey. This was our third year in Guatemala and it was every bit
as exciting as the first year. 

Sincerely,

Greg Autry 
 

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5.  Publishing & Advertising Information
===============================================
Xela Pages Guatemalan Newsletter is published online from
Quetzaltenango, Guatemala.

If you would like to advertise in this newsletter send request to
mailto:xela@trafficman.com Cost will be $5.00/issue - until further
notice

Have a great trip!!

Tom Lingenfelter - Editor
http://www.xelapages.com/
==============================================